Volcan Totumo – I Can’t Get Enough of Your Mud

Volcan Totumo – I Can’t Get Enough of Your Mud

On the extremely bumpy and speedy boat ride back from Playa Blanca, I met three English guys. Now, when I say bumpy, I was literally flying out of my seat a few times. We all had a few laughs on the way back and decided to have dinner and a few drinks later on.

During a really tasty pizza dinner in one of Cartagena’s many squares, we hatched a plan for the next day involving Volcan Totumo. They were headed to Santa Marta, I was on my way back to Barranquilla, which are all east of Cartagena. Rather than having to take a tour and a return trip to Cartagena, I thought it might be a good idea to get a taxi there. The other reason I was thinking seemed like a good plan is because I knew it would be good to get there before the tour buses. It was the right thing to do.

Hence, Volcan Totumo – I can’t get enough of your mud. Even though I'd been in August, one visit is never enough.

Upon entering the mud, not laughing is an impossibility

creatures from the grey volcanic swamp

We are standing on nothing, and although we tried even by dunking each other, we couldn't sink


The mud statue that I became

Dré, Will, Adam, and I sharing the love of mud

After seeing everyone covered in grey it was kind of amazing to see people emerge in color after being washed in the lagoon. We all agreed that it was a rejuvenating and hilarious experience.

Back to life in living color

We continued on to Barranquilla in the taxi together. There we had a fantastic and very inexpensive lunch de pescado at a local restaurant. They left for Santa Marta and I took a taxi home. I was excited to take a shower after the mud, then lagoon bath, but unfortunately I had no water. I got home at 1:00, it's almost 11:30 pm and still there is no water. It was supposed to come back on at 5:00, which I knew meant more like 6:00, but I thought it'd be back n by now. I also briefly had no power. These are the kind of things that I expect from Colombia and usually they don't bother me that much. I have learned to keep two 5-liter bottles of water full and on hand so, when the water is unexpectedly off for 12 hours at a time, at least I can flush the toilet. I was defrosting my refrigerator and using the melted ice to flush the toilet too. Creative problem solving. I went to the gym to shower, so I'm clean.

The problem is that I am flying to Panama tomorrow morning. I wanted to do some laundry of things I'm taking with me. The first thing I did when I got home was throw a bunch of dirty clothes in the washer and put in the liquid detergent. I do not have enough water left to wash clothes even if I take them out of the washer. I also have no dryer, so it's possible that I'll be taking some dirty clothes with detergent on them (including a mud soaked bathing suit), or at the least some wet and clean clothes with me to Panama. Oh well, that's just kind of the way things go here sometimes. I've got plastic bags so I will be able to pack the clothes whatever state they're in. I do hope the water comes back on soon though.

I will be in Panama for Christmas and for a while afterwards. It is the first time I am leaving Colombia since I got here in August. I'm looking forward to that and seeing a friend of mine from Portland.

I hope you all have a wonderful holiday season and a Happy New Year!

PS Just in case you've heard some news about a politician in southern Colombia, remember, I'm way up in the north.

Cartagena – The Old and the Beautiful

Cartagena – The Old and the Beautiful

If you are from the United States, the chances are that you don’t know very many people who have visited Colombia. If you do ever meet someone who has been here, the chances are that they have been to either Bogotá or Cartagena. I have not been to Bogotá except the airport yet, but I’ve now been to Cartagena twice, and I will definitely return. There are so many reasons to love Cartagena. It’s got a little bit of something for everyone.

I had been in Colombia all of 3 days the first time I went to Cartagena. It was before I had this blog, and then school started so I never got the chance to write about it.

Cartagena has it all: indigenous culture from Pre-Colombian times, the old world charm of Spanish Colonialism, a Caribbean vibe, modern sophistication, flowers, good food, nature, culture, dancing, shopping, it’s on a beach, and just a really vibrant feel when you walk around the city. It’s a hard place not to love. Now having been there again, I want to enthusiastically restate my love for it: I love you Cartagena!

Here are a ton of pictures of Cartagena in all its loveliness.

View looking in to the old city

Plaza de la Paz

Plaza de Coches

Bougainvillea

Iglesia

Church detail

It's even pretty at night

Nice panorama by Kären

Horse-drawn carriage ride with Dave, Kären, and her mom

Attention to color and form

Attention to detail

Quintessential Cartagena

Flags of Cartagena and Colombia

Dance

Dance

Dance

Plaza de los dulces

balconies galore

handicrafts for sale

the modern city

plain style

elaborate style

balconies

Kären in her natural habitat - the bookstore

Colombia Somos Todos

The fruit sellers

Cara bonita

Botero is from here

Puro Colombiano

La vista del Mar Caribe and the possible inspiration for Pirates of the Caribbean

Now maybe you love Cartagena too.

The Colombian Beach of Superlatives

The Colombian Beach of Superlatives

It’s true, I’ve spent a lot of time on beaches in Colombia since I’ve been here, but yesterday I went to the best one so far. It was about a 45-minute boat ride from Cartagena. The beach is actually called Playa Blanca, but I’m going to call it the beach of superlatives for obvious reasons to follow.

Yes, Playa Blanca - the most peaceful, relaxing, turquoise water around. There were not too many people and the ones who were there were friendly. If you wanted to be alone it was possible. It was absolutely gorgeous. There are not enough superlatives in English or Spanish to do it justice.

This is a post where I think the pictures say it all:

I know, it looks fake, but it wasn't

Yes, the water really was that color

Un amigo de cuatro pies

keeping life in balance...

...

...is harder than you might think

nature helps


I want to wish you a Merry Christmas from the bottom of my heart!

The Christmas Spirit

The Christmas Spirit

Last week, the week before Christmas break, was one of the best weeks I’ve had at my school. One of the things I like most about my school are the masses (see: la Misa). Each morning of the week started out with different grades presenting novenas. There were prayers and singing Christmas songs. Having worked in public schools, the kids will sometimes sing generic types of holiday songs. Here the students sang and danced to Christmas songs in Spanish that were definitely more Catholic than generic. It was lovely and fun.

My students, for some odd reason, were generally very good all week. Of course they were hyper and excited, but they also got their work done. I am finally seeing and hearing the results of some of the English I’ve taught my students in their papers and speech. Hooray!

All week long there were celebrations. Novenas – praying, singing, dancing. Birthdays – singing and cake. My wonderful teaching partner, Sandra, and I took our 6 “Star Students” out for pizza. Christmas Blaze – activities, and a talent show.* The seniors read and performed The Grinch Who Stole Christmas for the elementary students, which they loved. Then Friday was Sandra’s birthday, so the students had a surprise party for her. We also had a staff potluck, which besides food, also featured singing, guitar playing, and a celebratory atmosphere.

*I have to say, the child who won was amazing. I was walking back from the bathroom towards the stage area and I heard an accordion playing. I thought to myself when I heard it that it was a teacher playing. Upon returning to the stage I gazed in amazement at a very small boy playing this incredibly difficult, not to mention heavy, instrument. He was spectacular! I found out he was in first grade.

By the end of the day on Friday I was tired. While wishing my colleagues Feliz Navidad y Prospero Año Nuevo, I was asked if I’d like to go get a beer after work. Yes! ¡Sí! ¡Por sopuesto!

I have been here since August, and this past Friday, Decemeber 18th, marks the first time that I’ve gone out with a bunch colleagues after work. Kären, Dave, and I all had a fantastic time with our Colombian fellow teachers and we hope it’s not the last.

It's Colombia so of course there was singing and dancing.

Getting a salsa lesson. I could use quite a few lessons.

Spanish teacher and English teachers

Colombian and North American English teachers

Wherever you are, I wish you a Merry Christmas, Happy Solstice, Happy Channukah, or happiness in however you celebrate this time of year. Happy New Year! ¡Feliz Navidad y Prospero Año Nuevo!

A Blustery December Day at Playa Salgar

A Blustery December Day at Playa Salgar

It was the Sunday before Christmas break. I suggested that Kären, Dave, and I go to the nearest beach, Playa Salgar. Kären and Dave were taking flights the following Saturday, so this was our last opportunity to go to the beach together in 2009.

This is what Christmas decorations look like here. For more see Karen's blog post.

From where I live, Miramar, I can see the Sea. Although it is in the distance, a white line in the blue background tells me there are waves. This line has been more pronounced lately, and if you stare at it, you can see the semblance of a wave moving. Since December the waves have grown and the wind has been so forceful it howls fiercely through my windows. It's strange to hear this sound and still have it be 86 degrees.

the road down to Playa Salgar with lots of waves - see the white lines in the distance?

It was hot, and sunny on the way to the bus, but when we got to the beach, the waves were huge and reckless. The wind blew so strongly it was difficult to here each other as we hiked down the beach.

Playa Salgar on a hot and windy day

The place we ended up having lunch was on the second floor and the wind was literally making the restaurant sway back and forth. To give you an idea, Kären's half-full bottle of beer blew over and rolled off the edge of the floor crashing on the first floor below. We thought for a while the whole undersea-themed restaurant might collapse. Although it would make a fantastic story, we agreed that if it did happen it would be better if we were on the beach and on the second floor. It didn't collapse that day as far as we know.

See that beer? It didn't stay standing for long.

None of these pictures can convey how strong the wind was, but it made for a blustery day for sure. Being in the waves was kind of like being in a washing machine.

Taking the extremely full champeta bus home made me realize how much I’ve learned since I’ve been here. I am thankful that Kären and Dave are both here. Dave and I were amused and perplexed by why the stick shift in the buses are all covered in fabric and are huge (like the size of a wastebasket). This particular bus had one that was decorated with a face and hair. It was like being on a muppet bus. Awesome! Thankfully I think we all still find humor in the odd Colombian things daily.

P.S. We saw this guy walking home from the bus, right in the city of Barranquilla